Perhaps the real question is whether the lamb is truly “spring” lamb or merely all-season.

We’re unlikely to take into account our carnivorous leanings when we talk about eating seasonally. As wild creatures, animals have seasonal cycles of breeding, roaming, grazing, and birthing that dictate when they are harvestable. Because technology and the global market have interfered with these natural rhythms, like almost everything we eat today, meat is available year round. Still, lamb is perhaps the only widely farmed animal whose consumption retains a seasonal element.

But there are factors other than season that enhance the quality of a leg of lamb, such as breed and native habitat. Meat can be one of the great expressions of a spirit of place, an edible calling card from the animal’s hometown.

An animal from the Connemara region of Ireland or certain parts of France will grow fat munching on salty marsh grass and herbs. Lamb from Provence might taste herbaceous, redolent of rosemary, thyme, and wild fennel, while Colorado lamb is perfumed with clover and balsam. Sonoma County lamb is reputed to have a faint hint of wild garlic.

Genuine spring lamb is born, not killed, in the spring. Born in February or March, these animals are weaned four months later, at which point they graze and fatten exclusively on summer grass. Their meat becomes rich and sweet, and takes on a dark hue and a pronounced marbling of creamy-colored fat that matches beautifully with the earthy, forthright flavors of root vegetables and orchard fruit.

The lamb born in autumn is the one who will join the pastel-stained eggs and hollow chocolate bunnies. When you eat it, you will be communing with both seasons, something to keep in mind when you next celebrate spring.

[Ellen's recipe: Grilled Lamb with Minted Yogurt]

Ellen Jackson is a Portland-based writer and food stylist.