On a late fall morning, shortly after the end of Daylight Savings Time, I find myself beginning to dread the six-month onslaught of rain that is all but guaranteed to be coming for Portland. Bravely taking a peek at my Weather app, I see a promise of no sunshine for the next ten days. Rather than descend into madness, as I may or may not have done in previous years, I vow to take a different approach to winter: lean in. This year, I promise myself that I will take advantage of the many cozy places the Pacific Northwest has to offer—places best enjoyed during the cold and rainy months.
Let’s face it: winter in the Pacific Northwest can be a slog. Even for those who enjoy the rain, there are only so many cold and drizzly gray days one can take before one begins to question their own sanity. But what our fair corner of the world lacks in sunshine, it more than makes up for in hygge (the Danish concept for coziness made popular in America in recent years). Getting through the winter unscathed calls for some forethought: what will an average weekend look like for someone who needs a little warmth in their life in mid-January? For me, surviving the winter doldrums requires the perfect balance of escapism and acceptance. My ideal weekend consists of leaning into the weather with some outdoor adventure, followed by cozying up with comfort food, a tasty beverage, and a good book.
If weather permits, I’d take a trip up to Snow Peak Campfield. A recent addition to Long Beach, WA, this Japanese-style camping experience offers luxe lodging in cabins, Jyubako Suites, to meet all your cozy needs. Each of these minimalist cabins provides access to a Takibi grill, a portable and leaveno- trace take on a campfire, which can be used to cook meals or simply add to the ambiance of your stay. A market and all-day café offer essentials and luxury goods, promising extra ease and convenience. But Snow Peak’s most enticing offering must be the Ofuro Spa, inspired by traditional Japanese bathhouses. Rather than fight against nature, this spa encourages us to “invite nature in” via sweeping views of surrounding trees and a bespoke wooden interior. The perfect recipe for a hot soak, cold plunge, and dry sauna is sure to warm even the weariest spirits in the dead of winter.
But while I dream of such blissful luxury, I know the average weekend will be spent right here in town, eating and drinking my way through some of my favorite local spots. Portland is home to no shortage of spas and bathhouses like Everett House, Knot Springs, and Common Ground Wellness Cooperative, to name a few. But when I’ve had my fill of holistic wellness and relaxation, sometimes there is nothing better than settling in with a pint of beer and a good meal at a cozy local bar.
No winter weekend is complete without a trip to Kay’s in Sellwood. If you look it up on Google Maps, you’ll see “stalwart pub with roller derby viewings” in the description. While roller derby has less to do with the bar’s culture these days, “a stalwart pub” remains the perfect description for this cozy spot open since 1934. Vintage hurricane glass lamps cast a warm glow over dark wood paneling and oversized leather booths while old-school, light-up beer ads line the walls. You’d be hard-pressed to find a bar that exudes more hygge in all of southeast Portland during this time of year: enjoy libations like the Happy Czech hot toddy (made with iconic herbal liqueur Becherovka) or try one of many Moscow mule variations served in a giant copper mug. The food is some of the best Sellwood has to offer, and if you can find a seat on busier nights, you’ll understand what keeps people coming back to this timeless establishment.
For me, the necessary ingredients for a cozy bar include warm lighting (just say “no” to overhead lights), a good beer selection (with at least a few imports), and a comfortable seat to read a book or play dice with a loved one. Horse Brass Pub has all of these things in spades. Located on Belmont Street, this traditional English-style pub is adorned with thoughtfully placed Christmas lights year-round, giving the space an inviting aura that begs you to stick around for a while. Ducking into Horse Brass to get out of the rain will give you the sense that you’ve stepped into another time and place—without the hassle of TSA. Their solid beer list always has Portland’s lion’s share of craft beers and international imports to warm your belly. Find a spot at a rough-hewn wooden table, order a proper pint and a basket of perfectly executed fish & chips, and settle in with a good book to let your mind unwind. If fish & chips aren’t your style, don’t skip the Bangers and Mash to really absorb the English pub vibes.
Like the sound of posting up to read a book in a warmly lit bar? Don’t forget about the Rose City Book Pub, which feels like an old library if the librarian kept a stash of beer, wine, and kombucha in the stacks. Or check out Wyrd Meadery to imbibe a unique libation in a place that evokes Tolkien’s Prancing Pony (snag a seat in front of the giant roaring fireplace for maximum hygge). Pope House Bourbon Lounge will cure what ails you with their impressive selection and generous happy hour prices – they even have a weekly comedy night for when your seasonal affective disorder isn’t pulling punches. And if all of this is starting to sound a little too booze-soaked, please don’t forget about Rimsky-Korsakoffee House, a cozy Portland staple that’s open late with reliably good desserts.
There’s no shortage of cozy places to ride out the winter in Portland. The trick is actually to get out and enjoy them.
COZY PLACES IN PORTLAND
Snow Peak Campfield
5411 Sandridge Rd, Long Beach, WA 98631
Hours: 8 AM to 5 PM
snowpeakcampfield.com
(833) 662-7624
Everett House
2927 NE Everett St, Portland, OR 97232
Hours: 9 AM to 11 PM
(503) 232-6161
everetthousecommunityhealingcenter.com
Knot Springs
33 NE 3rd Ave Suite 365, Portland, OR 97232
Hours: 8 AM to 8 PM
(503) 222-5668
knotsprings.com
Common Ground Wellness Cooperative
5010 NE 33rd Ave, Portland, OR 97211
Hours: 10 AM to 10 PM
(503) 238-1065
cgwc.org
Kay’s Bar
6903 SE Milwaukie Ave, Portland, OR 97202
Hours: 2 PM to 1 AM
(503) 232-4447
kaysbarpdx.com
Horse Brass Pub
4534 SE Belmont St, Portland, OR 97215
Hours: 11:30 AM to 12 AM
(503) 232-2202
horsebrass.com
Rose City Book Pub
1329 NE Fremont St, Portland, OR 97212
Hours: 12 PM to 12 AM
rosecitybookpub.com
Wyrd Meadery
4515 SE 41st Ave, Portland, OR 97202
Hours: 5 PM to 10 PM
(503) 305-6025
wyrdleatherandmead.com
Pope House Bourbon Lounge
2075 NW Glisan St, Portland, OR 97209
Hours: 4 PM to 12 AM
(503) 222-1056
popehouselounge.com
Rimsky-Korsakoffee House
707 SE 12th Ave, Portland, OR 97214
Hours: 7 PM to 12 AM
(503) 232-2640
@rimskykorsakoffeehouse
