PHOTOS BY ROSS MALOOF
On a rainy Saturday afternoon in March, I discovered the unique charm of Duality Brewing and Astral PDX. Having followed this project with curiosity for some time, it was a thrill to finally step into this warm, modern, yet cozy space at 715 NE Lawrence Ave. What would conspire in the glass and on the plate launched a full-fledged crush. Here is a bonafide example of all the values we support and love in our local community.
Combining culinary talent with boundless fermentation creativity continues to shine in every endeavor these true artists put forward. As the Shaker-style wood-burning stove flickered away, bringing warmth to this “nano” brewery and micro kitchen space, we read through the menu, finding the playful offerings from the taps, natural wine selection and the food curations. We were impressed with the variety of carefully crafted and generally low ABV beer offerings. The food menu launched into imaginative combinations such as Crispy Shrimp Tacos, Octopus + Potato Huarache and Roasted Sweet Potato with Hazelnut Salsa. Using local, seasonal and inspiring ingredients is solidly at the forefront here.
In 2022, Michael Lockwood and wife/business partner Alyssa LeCompte announced plans to launch Duality Brewing in the Kerns Neighborhood. In May 2023, in a newly converted sustainable architecture building, they opened the doors. They partnered with John Boisse and Lauren Brenemen, of Astral PDX. The partnership values community and sharing the bounty of nature. Lockwood’s fermentation practices were honed from former days in kitchens at SQRIL in Silverlake, EEM, Dame and Kachka here in Portland. LeCompte spoke of her and Lockwood’s intent to make the space warm as if you were at their home kitchen table. I felt this when I entered the space. It has that “vibe” so much so that they got the attention of National Geographic in an article celebrating this “garagiste” endeavor.
With tanks and a few barrels lining the walls just adjacent to the taproom and pop-up collab-style kitchen, guests enjoy hearing the story of each limited-release beer. If you have the chance to get in and taste a few of the brews, don’t sleep on getting some cans and now bottles to take home. The brews don’t last long; some are only made once. They resource toasted leaves from fig trees, retired wine barrels with lees still present, summer citrus, warming spices and stonefruit to steep various elixirs. Lockwood’s steady hand fully embraces the DIY spirit and grassroots soul.
One can find Duality brewing at various pop-up events, on limited tap lists and in the coolers of small neighborhood haunts. Or, chat with LeCompte about setting up home delivery. As she and I spoke further, she clued me into their intent to establish a community garden, working with Growing Gardens, just outside the patio area where they host live music during the warmer months, including Lockwood’s own ensembles with himself on the drums. Duality Brewing is one of those places that hits all the right spots in just the right way: unpretentious, authentic and forever seeking out the next cool idea and crazy combo to bring together in a glass.
John Boisse and Lauren Brenemen arrived in Portland in 2017 from Chicago. Their project Astral PDX or just Astral, is the mouthwatering sibling to the space shared with Duality. This dynamic duo is reimagining classic Mexican dishes with a unique Northwest twist. Their pop-up at Han Oak, which lasted a month, quickly became a local favorite. When I first visited, and it’s still a regular on my list, we were blown away by the presentation and artistic compositions. Chef Boisse personally delivered our dishes.
This was a whole new level of taproom dining. The aromas and flavors were simply stellar and it was amazing to see how expertly they created their dishes in such a small kitchen. Boisse and Breneman’s pop-up style is stunning, and it’s evident in every menu item they offer. Their passion and honesty shine through in every dish. The menu changes often, not just with the seasons, but as a way to experiment with different flavors. The produce from local farms or purveyors is the basis for their version of a tasting menu. With dishes composed with house fermented hot sauce, pickled habanadas or Meyer lemon whipped ricotta, or the vibrant aguachiles of the forest floor and the smoky sweetness of processing together summer-ripe fruits from local orchards and bright pepper variations, the flavor journey continues in tastes and smells. And, don’t forget their famous Chocolate Chip Cookie…legendary.
The name Astral comes from a shared love of a Van Morrison song “Astral Weeks”. This is a theme that resounds through each detail clearly. Boisse and Brenemen’s impact on the Portland culinary scene is ever felt, rightfully so. When I went in to chat with everyone, the prep was in full production. Glancing over the abundance of produce, mixing bowls and beginnings of delicate flavor combinations brought about feelings of wonder. I was like a kid in a candy store. Boisse and Breneman have had a huge impact on the Portland food scene, and it’s well-deserved.
Since the opening of the 715 NE Lawrence shared space, I’ve had the honor of visiting these two businesses on many occasions, and you can find me regularly touting their refined yet approachable offerings. Additionally, I’ve often had the pleasure of eating Astral’s cuisine at various events around town, further showcasing their community-focused drive.
Aren’t we lucky.
Duality Brewing/AstralPDX, located at 715 NE Lawrence Avenue, is open Thursday and Friday from 4 to 9 and Saturday from 2 to 9. Frequently, a Tuesday is added for collabs and pop-ups, and there is also the occasional Sunday brunch.
