Upon my arrival at the distillery, Sarah, Justin, and James, the team behind the scenes, all skilled and creative souls responsible for the day-to-day operations, greeted me. I was in the company of a sterling few. The team offered me something to drink even before the tour began. Moments later, James returned and placed a tall glass in my hand containing a sparkling crystal ball of ice floating in the water. As I gazed in wonder, I realized I was in for quite a treat.
I was told a little secret as we stood on the platform’s edge, the wind from the river blowing through the open doors. As I looked down into the cavern of the still, Seth O’Malley said to me, “There’s frankincense in there.”
And who is Seth O’Malley? He is a spritely man who is passionate about his craft. He is a distiller and the co-founder of Wilderton Botanical Spirits. He and CEO and co-founder Brad Whiting run the distillery, strategically located along the Columbia River waterfront. With its unique microclimate and access to a wide variety of botanicals, this location plays a crucial role in the distilling process, adding an extra layer of complexity and depth to our spirits. It is a truly unique establishment, the nation’s first nonalcoholic distillery and tasting room. This summer, the ground floor and the second floor will be alive with activity as Seth and Brad, united in their vision, strive to create and produce spirits that are not just nonalcoholic but alive with flavor and aroma, employing the traditional craft of distilling.
The Mesopotamians used distilling practices to extract aromatic substances and essential oils from botanicals long before alcohol production. So the craft, the art of working with heat, water, and steam, along with the raw and whole botanicals that go into the process, is in a breath of time immemorial. It is this art that Seth and Brad are bringing back.
The magic of the craft occurs within these great stainless-steel stills. Within the confines of the steel, herbs, spices, and whole botanicals come together, heated with water, and not unlike a tea kettle, the steam rises. Instead of releasing it into the air and filling the room, the aroma is captured in the form of distillates—bubbles, tiny little orbs full of moisture and aroma. This is just one step in the elaborate process that culminates in creating their unique nonalcoholic spirits.
After Seth and I descended the ladder to the platform and stood on solid ground again, he told me another wonderful thing. “We are trying to recover an old human experience, a sensory experience, by crafting something interesting and compelling using more botanicals.”
Through experience and experimen-tation with myriad botanical, spice, and herb combinations, Seth and Brad have done just that in developing their three flagship nonalcoholic spirits: Lustre, Bittersweet Aperitivo, and Earthen, each a fount of refreshment both delicious and awakening for the senses. You will taste and smell the notes of violet, cinnamon citrus peel, orange blossom, and cardamom. Each one of the three Wilderton Spirits tells a story of its own.
Having examined with wonder the great still pots arranged in the middle of the ground floor in the distillery, we made our way over to a little nook where a wall contained a cornucopia of spices, herbs, and whole botanicals stood. It was magnificent! From near and far they come, the lavender grown right here in the Northwest to Butterfly Pea Flower from Thailand, sandalwood, bay leaves, patchouli, and rose petals, the wall of nature’s finest seemed to have no end. I pointed to one. Seth reached for the glass jar and took it down. It was a lovely dark blue, and I was curious. He took the lid off and held out the jar. I leaned in closer and inhaled the delightful aroma. From this cornucopia, Seth and Brad have chosen a select but varied few that go into the three expressions served at the distillery.
The first expression, Lustre, is a delightful surprise. As I took my first sip, I was greeted with a light and crisp sensation, a burst of citrusy and bubbly notes (thanks to Seth’s addition of a splash of sparkling water). It was as if I had been transported to a field of wildflowers in the early summer days. Another sip and I could almost feel the sun’s warm rays shining into the room. The second expression is Bittersweet Aperitivo, and I know it will attract some lovers. It is of Italian origin and bold and spicy. It awakens the appetite. Dark, sweet, and bitter, how can it be so complex, so deep, and rich? Taste it for yourself.
The third expression, Earthen, was to me the loveliest of all. It is sweet, like honey and earthy. I knew frankincense was in the mix because of the little secret shared with me earlier. But Earthen kept my palette guessing, so another sip was in order. Earthen is a spirit that would warm the soul deep in winter. Warm and spicy, it would melt even the coldest of hearts.
These three spirits are not just delicious on their own but also serve as the perfect base for a variety of cocktails and drinks. In the tasting room, you can choose from gems like the Lustre Margarita, a refreshing twist on a classic, or the Earthen and Ginger Ale, a warm and spicy concoction. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can peruse the recipe cards for guests to take home and try out using your favorite Wilderton Spirit. The one I slipped into my bag had the steps and ingredients for a Chai Old Fashioned, complete with a tweak of orange and a Star anise pod for flavor and adornment.
So. Will you come with a friend or alone this summer? Out and up for an adventure to taste and enjoy the fruits of labor at Wilderton Botanical Spirits? Will you bring a friend to sip and celebrate? Will the wind be blowing, the sun blazing? Whatever the circumstances, you won’t be disappointed. You may not want to leave.
